Cinque Terre...and...home!

Upon arrival, I just slept. Both Shane and Jason came in and out but they don't make much effort to hang out with me since they'll be leaving so soon.

Then next morning, I get up early by the dawn. I am taking Shane's advice and start my hiking early. It should take 5 to 6 hours to walk all 5 towns, he said. "Well, 5 hours to you, 8 hours to me," I laugh as I tell him.

I get the hiking trail ticket, get myself Italian breakfast, which is, a cappucino and brioschi... Italians don't believe in breakfast. Ever since I came here to live, what I missed the most is the big American or British breakfast, with bacon and eggs, toast with butter and jam, a cup of English tea with milk, black and white puddings, omlette with cheese/bell peppers/mushrooms/ham/bacon/onions, or biscuit with white gravy, or crossant sandwich with bacon egg and cheese. Mmmm!!!

So I was for 6 hours of hike, breakfasted with mere coffee and a piece of pasty, and off I went. It was a breeze between 3 villages. The sun did not come out yet, so I could stay nice and cool. Hazy weather made it difficult to take clear pictures but hell, I was not going to complain about the weather. The scenery is absolutely stunning. Blue water, rush greenery, olive trees, lemon trees, fig trees with their perfume all over the air, sea gurls, all the strange rock formation... Oh, how I missed the sea!

I went towards the 4th village, and the hike became more difficult. Thanks to my Dr Martin sandals, they are serving the purporse for real. Unless I didn't think I'd be able to hadle all this walking. Going up and down the hills, I find all kinds of strange plants, birds, flowers, and so many cactuses. Too bad it's not the middle of the summer so we can't eat the fruits off of them... The flowers are sure pretty still.

There are many cats along the way. They cry and ask for food and water as you pass by. Oh well, sorry, the water's for me and I don't have any food on me... Catch the lizard or something.

The last one was the most difficult of all. Compare to this one, all the others were warm-up. I thought about going for a horse riding after the hike. Probably I have enough time for that but my legs are about giving in. I will fell off and probably hurt myself at this rate...

After the last village, Monterosso, I take the train back to Riomaggio. I thought about walking back but I don't feel like it. Then I saw the maids about to change the bed sheet. Since Jason checked out this morning, I tell then I want to move my bed to his. I don't feel like climb up and down the bed every time. And they told me I cannot do that.

"I will use this bed, he left today."
"No, this is your bed. You use this bed."
"Do you understand? He left today. I want to use this bed!"
"No... This is your bed. You use this bed."
"I don't understand what's the problem. Why can't I use this bed?"
"No, no..."
I am tired. I am cranky. And my Italian is up to my limit. I start to go off on the maid girl in English.
"I don't see what's the problem here. Will the sky fall down if I move the bed? What's the reason why I cannot change the bed? I don't like the top bunker. I want to move!"
"I don't understand. I don't understand English."
Oh, the bitch wants to play dumb, huh?
"You ask at the office."
"You want me to ask at the office? I will ask at the office."
So I go and ask. Man at the counter says that's fine but I have to change the sheet myself.
So I go back. Jason's bedsheet has already been changed. As I start stripping the bed I am totally getting pissed. They could just change the top bunker sheet. But they didn't want to because that'd be harder to do. I came to relax. I didn't come back to make bed after the long hiking. As I curse and shout as I change the sheets, the maid girls call the office lady.
"Madam, what's wrong?"
"They told me I can't change the bed. I went to the office and was told that's fine. But I have to change the sheets myself!"
"Why do you change bed?"
"Because I don't like the top bed. I don't like climbing up and down all the time."
"Has the sheets been changed?"
"Yes! It has been changed. I didn't pay to make bed. I only paid to sleep here! I still had to do it because THEY DID NOT WANT TO!"
"Okay, okay, madam. If you just wanted to change the bed, I don't have problem with that. They don't speak any English. Please understand."
"Fine."
Had I been less tired, I'd work it out in more diplomatic way, but this is what happens when I am tired and cranky.
So I scrawnge my stuff around and bought myself a Cinque Terre Biancho. A pretty damn good wine. While I was sipping wine, Shane comes back, and a new girl checks in. We go to the sea and swim for a bit, and there I find a bunch of sea urchins in the water. I really want to capture them because they are delicious! You will have to pay about $7 a piece in Japanese Sushi restaurant. But I am not sure if I can capture things out of the sea. I might get fined. So I give up. After I swim for a while, I come back. Thanks to the water goggle I picked up from the pool, I could get to see all kinds of things at the bottom.
"Rock beach is a whole lot more fun than the sand beach." That's what Filippo told me once.
"There are more to see. Besides, rocks are less messy than sand when you get out of the water." I suppose he's right.

On the way back to the hostel, I saw 3 American girls. 1 was totally drunk and out of control. She couldn't stand up and she's kicking and screaming at everyone around her. They are getting off at the train station next to my stop and I tried to help as much as I can but she was totally out of it. The attendant calls the police and mumbles something about Americans... Somehow that makes me upset. I usually compain about ignorant, ugly Americans myself but after all, America is still my country.

I come back. I am tired. Everyone's out looking for hookups. It's such a romantic place, one could easily find guys/girls to sleep with I suppose, but I don't feel like it. As a matter of fact, the whole time here I met NOBODY. Oh well, so be it. So I fall asleep. Just one more day and I will be gone...

I slept in late. Then I getup to find something to eat. There is a deli I usually go to get my food. And there I found muscoli rippieni (stuffed mussels)! I buy a few of them and cinque terre biancho and some veggies and bring it to the town square. This is a place where I bring all my food to eat. There's no kitchen in the hostel so one would always buy food to eat. And I always eat outside to save money. The taste was amazing. I decide to have some more for dinner.

Then I purchase a train ticket to go to Monterosso. There I decide to swim for a bit more and get myself a train ticket home...
Yeah. Home...
I don't miss it there. I just want to travel like this forever.
As I walk around the town, looking for a spot to hang out on the beach, there I hear what a guy was saying as he passes me by with a perverty smile. "mmm, but what a beautiful Japanese..." Why "but" is there, shit if I know. I suppose that's what they say in Italian. But I'm not flattered. I don't appreciate the perversion. And I don't want to be mistaken for Japanse or Chinese. I frown and move on.

I spend some time on the beach and went to a restaurant that my guidebook recommended. There I had muscoli rippienti again. I liked it so much I wished I could have it in my town.

I come back to the room. Fuck, it started to rain! The sky is crying for me that I have to return. It's okay. It's not over yet. The very first chance I get I will run away again, until I have to come back...

I wake up in the morning and pack. No one checked in so it was me and the girl. "It was so nice meeting you" she said. We indeed have some good conversation. It was nice to have another girl's company after a while. Then I had a cup of capuccino and a briosch in a bar before I headed out.
"So, you're an angel, no? Very beautiful."
An Italian guy tells me as I am drinking my coffee. Very first time anyone asked me ever since I went on this trip...

I get on the train. All kinds of memories pass me by. It is over. It is REALLY over. My longest travel I have ever done. The most amazing, exciting, fun, lovely trip of all. I think about all the people I met, I stayed with, and all the things they have done for me. Giovanni in Sadinia, Filippo, Gianni, Vito, Domenico, Giovanni in Roma, my roomates I met in hostels, all the nice Italians I encountered. It was a wonderful life experience. Now I am going back to Friulli. The sky gets greyer. The temperature gets cooler. People's complexion gets lighter and so are the forests. Sun shines more softly and now I know finally I came back.

Yes, now I am back.

I will miss the South. I will miss the sun, the pebble beach, the blue water, the food, and cheery happy friendly people who thinks everyone's their friend.

Now I am back.

Off we go, Cinque Terre! But Pisa first...

I get to hop on the train to leave Roma. Now I am off to Cinque Terre. I am almost there. I will be home soon.

Around 1 pm, my phone rings. It was Giovanni.
"Cìao, Nic! I just woke up. Can we get togethere so I can show you around a bit?"
Perhaps I should've texted him and telling him I am about to leave.
"No, sorry Giovanni. I am leaving..."
"Oh, can we get together and get something to eat then?"
"No, no... I am so sorry, Giovanni. I am already leaving. I didn't want to get there late and end up running into a problem like when I got here. I will come back. I am sure Roma will still be here when I come back."
"Ahhhhh I am sorry, Nic. I went to bed late and I woke up. I didn't know you were coming this weekend. I am so sorry."
"It's alright. It's alright! You've already done so much for me! There will be next time and we will meet again, okay?"
"Yeah, have a nice trip."
"Yes, yes, I will. Take care, thanks for everything."
"Yeah you too."
I smile as I hang up the phone. People like him makes my trip 100 times better.
Later, I get the text message from him.
"I am sorry, I wanted to show you around a bit and cook something nice for you at home. Enjoy your trip."
Missed my chance for another nice home cooked meal, but oh well...

However, I ran into a littlebit of problem. I was so tired since I got next to no sleep last night, I fell asleep and missed my stop. God only knows how many stops I went through never waking up! The train already reached the final stop in Livorno.

I panic and check the schedule. Next available train won't get there in Monterosso until 3 am. Everything will be closed. Oh gees, what shall I do? Then I think about the most craziest thing that is beyond bravery, or better yet, deadly stupid thing as most people might say. I decide to find the place to sleep out on the street.

I look around, and there are plenty of hotels. But there would be no hostels due to lack of tourists there. The first bow I made to myself was never ever to sleep in hotels throughout my trip, unless the sky falls down.

Then I decide to call my acting babysitter Shannon. He used to live there so I thought he might be able to hook me up with someone I can stay with. He tells me there will be some hotels that I can stay for about 55 euros at night.

"No... I don't want to stay in hotels." I tell him. "I might crash in the train station."
"I will try something. Let me figure something out. And I will call you back. But don't sleep in train station."
"Okay, I won't. I will figure something out."
He calls me moments later.
"Well, everyone's either got their phone turned off or not answering. Really, you should get a hotel room."
"Oh, don't worry. I will figure something out."
"Don't sleep in the train station!"
"Okay, I won't."
Then my phone battery runs out.

100 euros in cash in my hand. I could easily get myself a hotel room if I ever wanted. But that would be meannigless for my trip. I check around the area and there is a park with a lot of benchs. Well, I did not lie to Shannon. I told him I won't sleep in the train station, but I never said I won't sleep on a park bench right outside of the train station, did I? I look around. A couple homeless bums here and there, and some women standing around who might be... Prostitudes? I look around some more and I find a street bum with his dog, who is just setting up his bed on a bench. I approach to him and go aroudn him in circle to see his reaction.
"Don't worry. He's a good dog." He smiles and tells me as I pass by looking at his dog. He continues to look at me as I circle around him. He is trying to do nothing to me. "He is good... I will sleep next to him. He will make sure nothing will happen to me. He needs a friend. He will do anything to keep me by his side as long as he can..." I thought to myself. Then I look around some more. I make a note of some cardboard boxes that I can place under me and go to use the toilette in the train station. As I walk out, a guy is approaching to me.
"Excuse me, speak English?"
American accent. A guy who is speaking English to me in here? Who could this be? Did he get lost as well and trying to figure his way?
"Yes."
"Is your name Nic?"
"...Yes?"
"Hi, I am Shannon's friend. He told me to come get you because you are stranded."
...Shannon knew me better indeed...
"Wow! I can't believe he actually found somebody! Thank you so much for coming out!"
"Oh, no problem. I was just wondering how you'd know if I was his friend. I was like, what if she says no, go away!!!"
We were trained to never trust anyone. Trust anyone and you will get killed. Too bad. Too sad.
He brings me to someone else's place, Chad, since he lives right by the train station. Then the phone rings.
"Hi, Shannon? Yeah, I found her. Yeah, I brought her to my friend's place. I thought it would be better since he lives right here."
Then they suddenly switch the conversation to Italian.
"Yes, yes, I know him. He's good. Yes, I know him well."
Shannon wanted to make sure I will be in good guy's hand, but in case he isn't, he didn't want me to get paranoid. So he is speaking in Italian hoping I won't understand. Shannon is a good guy through and through. He is one of only very few people who can understand me.
Fortunately, Chad takes me in graciously. I showered, slept, and left to catch the train. Before I depart, I give him the link to my blog.

Okay, so I hop on the train. Finally, I am REALLY on my way. I have to switch the train in Pisa, so I decide to hop off and check out the leaning tower of Pisa. The town is beautiful, and clean. Tuscans possess their own beauty. Eyes and hair softer than the Southerners, but not quite as light as Friullians around my area. This is the middle point of Italy. This place seems to have the best of the best from both South and North. People have friendliness of Southerners but not as chaotic. As I watch young men with their long, ringlettes of brown hair, I understand where the image of David comes from. Southern men can be black mustangs, Northern men can be white Arabs. But here, they are andalucians of all. The most magnificent and beautiful of all kind.

I get to have a rather comical picture taken with the help of... Well, I think they are swiss couples. They spoke German but the accent was not quite recognizable... That is my assumption anyway. Once spoken German is unusually pleasing to my ears, it always happens to be from German speaking Swiss.

And I head back to the train station. Curse my sense of direction, if there was any! I ask a man on the street where the train station was.
"Well it's over that way... But did you see the tower?"
Typical Italian behavior. I only asked for the direction to the train station and he wants to make sure I got to see the tower. That's what's very nice about Italians. This trait goes both North and South. Ask Italians anything. Not only you will get the answer, but they will volunteer all kinds of extra information to you.
"Do you want to go to the museum? It's over that way. But why don't you wait until tomorrow? You can enter for free, you know." Or, "Do you want to catch the bus? It's over that way. Remember, the bus leaves every 20 minutes. What time is it now? Goodness! Next bus leaves in 10 minutes so you need to hurry!"

So I get back in the train. Change in La Spezia, now I am in Monterosso... as I was passing by a very strange view of Northern Appeninnes..

I AM IN CINQUE TERRE!

I call Patrick and get some information out on place to stay. He's just been here not too long ago. He enthusiastically explains all the things he as done, and liked. The nudist beach especially. Yeah yeah, he's a young chap. He likes that kind of stuff... I found a hostel room in Riomaggio. I unpack my stuff and meet my 2 roommates, Shane, the Australian guy and Jason, the American guy. They were both friendly but leaving very soon.

The place is so beautiful. I wanted to walk around, but due to the lack of sleep for past 2 days I am unable to do anything. Most of the day I just lay in my bed trying to fall asleep but perhaps because of the heat, I am unable to. Shane tells me about the hiking between all 5 villages, which he really enjoyed. I am about to do that myself. He tells me it's the best to start very early of the day because of the heat. Makes sense... I manage to fall asleep and hope I feel better next day...

I am in Roma!!!

After I paid 17 euros for the insalata Caprese and a beer, I head back to Napoli. Was it worth that much money? Probably not. But did it taste good? Sure. Can I make it better than it was myself? Yes. But I had to have it. Besides, having a homemade Caprese salad at home is n nothing like having it by the sea overlooking the isola di Capri. Nowadays, it is almost priceless for me to be able to say that I had swedesh meatballs in Sweden, Danish pastries in Denmark, Crepes in France, Pizza in Napoli, Belgian waffles in Belgium, Viennese coffee in Vienna, sushi in Japan, goulash in Hungary... The beachs were nice and I thought about swimming, but I am in no hurry. It is reserved for my time in Cinque Terre...

And I come back to Napoli. Never thought I'd miss it here...

The time is pretty late. I don't feel like to try out the hitch hiking. So I get ahold of the train ticket to Roma and head out. I was short on change, but the man at the ticket counter says not to worry about it. Then there was a ticket I didn't get to validate for the bus. I am about to leave now, so the ticket will be useless to me. I simply handed it to a guy who passes me by.
"I don't need it anymore. I leave today."
He holds the ticket and looks at me. All he did was to smile because that made him speechless. His stunned look was very amusing and I hop on the train.

There I met a Aussie guy named Justin. We sat next to each other and he was a real good company. I walked around Capri and Napoli all day, and he walked around Pompei all day. Both of us are all dusty and covered with sweat. The smell of two filthy back packers must have been overwhelming... We split after train stops, and I give him my phone number and e-mail and offer him a place to stay once he comes around in Venezia. Hell, after all the hospitalty I received from all my Italian friends, I can pay forward, I thought. And I text to Giovanni to inform him I will be in Roma tonight. He calls me back to tell me he's in Milano at the moment, and he will be back tomorrow evening, and he feels very sorry he couldn't greet me right away. I keep on telling him it's not his fault. And we agree to have a dinner together when he comes back to Roma.

And I am now in Roma...
1 more destination and I'll be done...
I am almost home...

The train arrives after 11 pm. All metros stopped running so I asked around people and caught the bus. At the changing point, there really won't be any bus, a nice lady next to me said. Then she's asking me if I am with anyone, and I tell her I am on my own.
"Awwwww..." Look of worry shows on her face, and I tell her not to worry. At the bus stop, I start walking. A blister started forming on my right food. Not a good thing at all if I want to hike in Cinque Terre...

I walk and walk and walk. I ask around people for directions but no one seems to know. I am getting tired. And agitated. And cranky... I don't even make any efforts to speak Italian anymore and anyone who bumps into me I get so pissed off.

Finally I found the camp site. It is rather impressive place. I never stayed at campgrounds before and I was quite content. I took a shower and I am exhusted. I make my bed and go to sleep.

I wake up next morning and the first thing that came to my mind was doing the laundry, and charge my mobile and camera battery. There are places where I can hand wash stuff and I hang them dry. Thanks to the Rick Steven's laundry cord that doesn't need cloths pin... It was quite handy in Vito's place in Matera too. Dayum, Nic, since when you became so ghetto? I ask myself. While I was getting the batteries charged, I decide to take a dip in the swimming pool. I spot an abandoned water goggle and quickly claim it.

"You don't steal. You never steal from fellow travellers. When you are at a place where lots of people gather, there will always be something that somebody leaves behind. THAT is what you claim. Umbrellas, sleeping mats, flashlights... You just go to the lost/found center and ask. Whatever they bring it out, say 'yeah, that's it!' and take it... Unless it will never be used anyway."

This is the trick Demian taught me when we were in Budapest. Backpackers never steal from each other. Instead, they share everything under their possession. It's almost an obligation once asked, because you just never know when it is your turn to ask for a favor.

Then I decide to go to the Sisten chapple, one of my missions in Roma. I ran into a real sweet Aussie girl named Mani. We explored the Vatican Museum together. Didn't get to see Shannon since he had to leave soon after I got back... Such a magnifisant place! Who in this world would not love Roma! I loved this place completly since the day 1. We come back to the camp site and I strip off my T-shirt, long pants, and closed toed shoes. I brought them along with me and carried with me all this time soley to enter the Vatican. Now that they outlived their usefulness, I leave them in the laundry room so someone can take them.

I head out again, and look for Spanish steps... It was easy to find. But Pantheon was a difficult one. I found a guy a lady and a nun and followed them along to get there. There we found the Pantheon and I take some pictures.

...Mission has been accomplished...

I found an Irish pub, so I go in and have a pint of Guiness. As I walk around the street looking for an internet cafe while I was waiting to meet up with Giovanni, a guy approachs to me and asks me if I am Japanese.
"No, Korean."
He follows me along and asks me where I am going. I tell him I am looking for an internet cafe. He walks along and asks around for me but there's non around the area. Then I notice he is getting more touchy as he keeps on talking to me. So there goes my favorite phrase.
"...Non Tochare me."
He backs off, and I tell him I need to meet a friend of mine.
"An Italian?"
"Sì."
He backs off right away.

I wait for Giovanni to call me. He was running late because his flight got delayed. He keeps apologizing for not being here and I keep telling him it's not his fault. We meet up and with his friend Pepa we go to a dinner. And he took me to a place where all Romans go to hang out at. It was a very nice time. When he brought me home, it was almost 2 o'clock in the morning.

I woke up early. I couldn't sleep very well because guys next to my tent were being loud and kept me up. Oh well, now my stuff is packed, and now I am heading out to the final destination, Cinque Terre...

I think I like it here. :)

I contacted all the people I can to get myself a place to stay in Roma. The result was no good. I can't stay in Giovanni's place and my choice is running out. So out of desperation, I reserved myself a camp site with a tent and a bed. Oh well. I thought about reserving myself a tent with 2 beds, but, I can use some privacy. Besides, I won't really need any company. I will arrive late at night on Friday and I will be dead tired. On Saturday, I will call Giovanni anyway... I will be just fine strolling street myself.

So I change my plan. I decided to give 1 more day in Napoli looking around the city. I will leave my bag pack in the hostel until I get to check out the isola di Capri and Sorrento. I will return and take my bag and head out to Rome. Hitch hiking? I'm not too sure. I will see what I feel like to do by then...

One thing puzzled me... I am so used to say/hear the word "arrivederci" meaning goodbye in my area. Since I left home, I never heard anyone saying it once. It was always simple "ciao." So I text to both Alessio and Gianni, asking "why no one ever says 'arrivederci' in South?" Hell, if I ask both Northern and Southern Italians, suppose I get a valid answer I thought, but there was no reply. So I took it as "shit if I know."
Va bene, raggazi.

I roamed around some more of the street and stroll to the streets I haven't been by the nuovo castello, and find the most magnifisant spots of Napoli!

Whoa! What took me so long to find these places out?!

I remember a poster of a really beautiful site... Palazzo Reale is here! I walk in there and my jaw drops as I am ashtoned by its beauty. I am totally impressed. The whole area around it is just lovely. Aha, now I am starting to understand why one would say Napoli is so beautiful. Man, this city is really growing on me. It took me 5 freaking days to finally like it here and I am about to leave. I got used to the traffic. I got used to the bus and metro system. Whoever said public transportation is bad down South, I wonder if they ever tried the public transportation in my area?

I do feel safe here. Coming back to the hostel around midnight I felt no threat.

As I am chewing a piece of pizza in my mouth galderoping around Piazzo Reale, a Japanese girl is asking me about the direction to the information office.
...Fuck, Nic. Where's all your Japanese skills?
I managed to ask the staff for the direction for her. She was very greteful and tells me "grazie."
What the fuck? I'm not an Italian, Girly!

Then I decided to visit the national acheological museum, since Zephyr once told me all the bodys and artworks got moved to the museum here. That was the reason why I didn't make much effort in Pompei to see everything. But it came across to me that there is no body from Pompei stored in museum here.
Zephyr... He's just no help for this trip...

As I enter the museum, the lady at the information desk warns me that they'll close in an hour. I said that's alright, that I am leaving tomorrow. And I go to the ticket counter, and the man at the counter gives me a free ticket since there's not much time left to see around the museum.
...Italians are just so unpredictable...

Okay, so I look around really quickly. There wasn't much in the museum since most of their display matrials are being restored anyway.

Now I am heading out to Mateo's to get myself another piece of pizza. Man, pizza here can be very addicting...

We gather around the hostel living room and eat pizzas we brought in, and drink beer. There I met Katy, an American girl who will also be in Roma and she told us she wants to meet up and do something because it's her birthday. We exchange e-mail and phone number and everyone takes shower and goes to bed.

I think about going to my bed, but it would be too bloody hot... I turn the fan on, and crash onto the couch that is in the livingroom. It's somewhat cooler there with no one around.

I wake up in the morning and start packing up. There I went to Sorrento, and check out a ticket to go to Isola di Capri. I got in the ferryboat and as soon as I arrive, I am just awed by its beauty. But I don't think I like it here. It's too clean. It's too expensive. I dart through the streets of Versace, Gucci, and all the expensive shops and feel like I've got no place to stay. It still is beautiful, but I don't feel home at here. I am not a high class Person, and in this place I'd get bored so fast!

Then Shannon texts me, "In Rome now." I text him back, saying we'll get together once I make it there. Just that I am not sure when I will be there... Never thought I'd meet him up there but still a company anywhere helps.

So I head out. I will make sure to try insalata di caprese before I head back to Sorrento, and Roma...

Chaotic Napoli, hot Pompei, and lovely Amalfi

I packed my stuff and checked into the hostel... Couldn't stay with Domenico anymore becaues he said he'll be out of town. So I find a hostel in the guidebook and give them a call. When I drop in, I get rejected because they won't accept my ID as form of identification. So I called the 2nd place and make sure to let them know that I don't have my passport, and they say that's fine.

I try to navigate through the streets and subways. I am getting pissed because a lot of street signs are posted on the most unthinkerble places. Subway air is so toxic it's hard for me to breath. Some street signs are perfectly covered up because of some construction work. And one of them happens to be a street that I need to make a turn.

I can't seem to get used to the method of street crossing that is literally gambling with your life. It is either "successfuly cross the street or die." When one makes eye contact with the driver, the driver assums that you will wait for the traffic to clear so it's the best to just dodge in and hope they will stop.

Everything's chaotic in Napoli. The street, the building, and the people. One moment you run into people who will go out of their way to help you out, and the other moment they will do nothing for you. Taxi drivers stop for you when you try to cross the street and yell at you because you didn't take the chance. While asking for direction, young guys think I asked because I thought they were fine and tell me the direction with such flirty attitude. It's troublesome whenever I ask for the direction because of the Napolitan dialect. One person I can understand perfectly but the other person I can't understand one damn thing he/she is saying...

I keep on walking and it's very hot. I panic a little becaues I get the shortness of the breath. I barely managed to find the hostel and unpack my stuff. Then Domenico calls, checking and making sure I got a place to stay.

Then I walk along the street, trying to find some interesting spots. I visited a museum and roamed around a bit. Nothing really interests me here. It's down right chaotic... I go to a pizzaria and order myself a pizza. This place only makes pizza magherita. It has always been a good pizza but however, my the favorite pizza is the Caprese. When I got the pizza there are some basil leaves topped as bonus because guys there liked me. I bring it out in front of a church and devour it away. The camping utensiles I bring around everywhere with me are invaluable at times.

I come back to the hostel. I am exhusted. I couldn't sleep last night again. I go to bed by 9 pm. I woke up in the middle of the night and there are people in the living room having a good time. As much as I'd like to join them, I couldn't...

I wake up next morning and decide to visit Pompei. It was as if I was back in Sassi. A lot of people told me Pompei is not "all that," but I still liked it there. They are going through some restoration process but I thought it'd be better off without it... That'd be more... Original. However, it was hot... Very hot! After I walked around for a couple hours, I had it enough. I decide to go to Amalfi and spend some time there before I get back. While I was waiting for the bus, there's a man offers me a ride.
"Where are you going?"
"Amalfi."
"Come with me, we go together."
I check him out and I am not sure. He doesn't speak any English so he can't be targeting tourists... I might have hopped in if it wasn't my experience in Sicily. Besides, I ask to myself if he'd still offer me a ride if I was with someone else, and the answer was no.
"No."
"Come on, we can go together with MY CAR."
Mother fucker. Do you really think you can lure me with your cheap ass Fiat? Have you got any idea what kind of car I've got at home?
"No."
He's persistent, which makes me more reluctant. Finally he goes away and the bus arrives.

Amalfi was totally lovely. I adored their cathedral there. I didn't know they've got natural caves and I wanted to check them out but the time is running late... I ran into a nice old man who was taking a walk with a dog. I couldn't really talk back but he told me a lot of things about that area and how much he loves the mountains there. He told me he used to work in Napoli for a while, but somehow his Italian is very clear one with the Southern Italian accent that I understand so well. So different from flat sounding of the Northern Italians' speech... I like the way they sound. It really sounds like true Italian language that everyone thinks of. Even gentle, tranquil-natured Gianni's Italian speech is of a cheery, vibrant, happy up-and-down sounding of the Southern Italian's.

I take a sit by a cafe, order myself a crepe, and the girl there let me use the internet for free.
"If you come here often, then that's okay."
??!! Did she get me confused with someone else? However I am not complainting. Italians are really unpredictable sometimes I tell you.

I walked around for a while, and try to catch the bus to get back to Napoli. The bus driver informs me that I need to go to Salerno first and chage the bus, so I hop in. The scenery is truly beautiful and I think about Pat and how much she'd love to be here with me. Poor lady is in Hawaii but yet she still can't forget about her time in Italy...

The bus arrives in Salerno around quarter past 9. I try to catch the bus to Napoli and ask to the people standing around by the bus next to us.
"Napoli? It's finished. The last bus leaves at 9."
Fuck me.
"Take the train. The station is close to here. Ask people there."
So I go to the train station, and found out the train to Napoli is delayed. While waiting, there's a train that goes to Cosenza right in front of me, that I am very tempted to jump in...

Train arrived in Napoli. It's almost midnight. If I try to go back into the hostel after midnight they will charge me 5 euros. I barely managed to make it on time. After I left Domenico's place, everything's costing me money. They want money for using their olive oil. They want money for using their sugar for my coffee. While I was staying with my friends I never had to worry about that. Probably not a good thing, but I am now spoiled... No check out time, no curfew, no lockout... I got up whenever I wanted, I went to bed whenever I wanted. The Italians I stayed with spoiled me with their hospitality as I was their VIP. Especially Gianni. He managed to get me completely spoiled rotten. I was his 1st priority. He knew what I wanted or needed even before I mentioned, or better yet, realized myself. I realized I was hungry after he fed me. I realized I was thirsty after he placed a glass of water in front of me. When I was having fun tumbling around in a creek he took me to, he followed me with my shoes in his hand. I was coughing all night due to my acid reflux. I have forgotten my medications and I might end up getting an ulcer. When I woke him up in the middle of the night and asked for some milk, he asked me if I wanted it hot or cold. When I left, he handed me a bottle of water after noticing how much water I drink all the time and I wasn't even thinking that myself!

I fucking miss Gianni.

"Shall I go to Cosenza rigth now?" I sent him a text message. "Are you joking?? You know my place is always open to you. Remember here's a place you can always feel at home!" That's what he replied... At times, I was so tempted to ditch Roma and Cinque Terre and go back to Cosenza, but my mind was made up to finish this trip.
"I really want you to stay, but I know you have your mission that you have to accomplish..."
That's what he told me as I was about to catch my train out of Cosenza. And it'd be a shame not to finish this trip. Besides, I really should see Giovanni in Roma and treat him with some beer to thank him for letting me stay with his family in Matera.

So I press on, and I am on my way to Sorrento, and Isola di Capri.

Problem solved!

Okay... My ID has been replaced. As I was in the installation, I ran into Zephyr.
"Hi Nicole."
He passes me by just like that. It's his way of telling me "I totally absolutely don't give a damn about you. You won't bother me one bit."
Fine.

I send SMS to my friends to let them know all is good now and head out to Napoli city center. I fail to understand why one would say it is romantic here. I also fail to understand why one would say it's dangerous here. I find a cathedral, and put my camera almost laid down on the ground and take a picture with great angle. Something I learned from Tristan, while I was visiting him in Paris. I wonder if he is taking pictures in front of mirrors now like I do? I roam around the city, and decide to make my visit to modern art museum. My favorite place to visit no matter where I am. And the entrance was free! A lot of weired things... There's no point. I love it because there's absolutely no point. The tourists' 3 day pass will be saved for tomorrow and from then on.

Then Vito calls to say hi. He wanted to know if I managed to get myself a place to stay. He knew I was having a hard time trying to find a place in Napoli. Roma is not looking good either. Giovanni, who is Filippo's friend, just informed me that he cannot take me in because he's too busy with work. Oh well, I suppose I really need to get myself a hostel room this time... That won't really hurt me. Perhaps I will be able to find myself a female companion. I miss Brandy. I miss Anna and Sonia. I miss Eve. From conversation with Eve, we found out how much Estonians and Koreans share the common thoughts. I want to talk about lipsticks skin care spas cloths makeups and men. Oh well. It's now time to head back...

The fest, and mighty Sassi!!!

As I unpack my stuff, Vito calls me. "We're going to a party!" He says. Shit... I haven't got any fancy cloths for a party! My best looking outfit still has salt all over from Sardinia. Then I remembered, I've got no more underwear to wear either.

Immediatly, I go to bathroom and start washing my cloths. Thanks to my laundry hanger... Got to love Rick Steve's travel gadgets sometimes.

I took a littlebit of walk, and make a note of Tobacco shop where I can buy bus ticket. I will need that for tomorrow since Vito's place is not that close to the town center. After a bit, a phone rings... It was Vito. I hurridly return home, and Vito comes to greet me. He's with his cousin also named Vito. They are both warm, friendly, cheerful, hilarious, and happy. All that you can expect from Southern Italians. They stop by to pick up his girlfriend Meri, and we head out. It happens to be not exactly a party, but a fest in a town near Bari. We carry on the conversation with half English, half Italian. But we had so much fun anyway. I tell them all the places I've been. They think it's the coolest thing. Vito's cousin, Vito, tells everyone he runs into, "hey, this is Nic. She was born in Korea, then she lived in the USA, then Germany, than England, and now she works in Italy!" Which I thought was really cute.

We arrive at Polignano. Suppose this is another place that is so famous for Carnivale, besides Venice. Illuminated lights everywhere, almost like Christmas, or better. It was incredible and they ask if there's anything like this. "Only for the Christmas..." They laugh as I answer.

People are everywhere. There's a giant grill, where they are cooking BBQ with the biggest scewer I have ever seen (it's like 1 meter long, that's about a foot and half folks!). Cool! One can select whichever kind of meat inside, and they cook it outside. We take a sit and wait for our food. Life is good... I am having such a great time. What you can experience once you get together with the locals... And I think about how greatful I am for Giovanni who allowed me to stay in Matera. And Filipppo sent me an SMS message, saying he will look for someone who can take me in when I get to Roma. You go to love this guy.

Like any other fest, there are food, venders, and we stand around and enjoy the firework. Cool! We come back. It's around 3 am and I am totally beat...

I slept a lot. I slept and slept and slept. Well as a matter of fact, I've been getting up around noon just about every day. Sounds like a lot of sleep, but the problem is, I haven't been able to sleep very well at night. It might be my Vampire nature came back and have to sleep during the day, or change of surrounding prevents me from falling asleep, but either way I really haven't been getting any more than maybe 5 hours of sleep a day.

Around noon, I get up. As I sort through some of my stuff, I found a really big trouble.
...My ID card. It is lost. It slipped off of my wallet... I look around everywhere and still I am unable to find it anywhere.
Shit.
Since I am traveling within Italy, I didn't want to bring my passport. All I got now is a piece of paper that indicates my leave authorization. Oh well, until I get to Napoli, there won't be much I can do.

Vito's father calls me and tells me to give him a call once I return home. I go outside, buy a ticket for the bus, and wait for the bus. Vito stops as he drives to go to school. He offers me a ride so he can bring me to the town center.
"I told my father we should have dinner with you," he says.
"No, I don't want to be a trouble. That's alright."
"No, no! I think we must treat you because you're our guest!"
He's very busy preparing for the final exam at his university. He feels very bad that he can't take me out and show me around. But really, I know how to get to Sassi, and all I ever want was a place to lay my head.

He drops me off at the city center, where Sassi is. Ah ah, Sassi! How many Americans will say they've been there? As I enter the area, I am totally amazed at the sight. I have never seen anything like it before. Stone buildings, as old as before the Christ time. I follow around the windy paths and feels as if I am in different world. Bright sun, blue sky, dry air, and whole area that is so full of stones and buildings also made out of stone. The monotone terra cotta colored buildings but yet so beautiful in their own way that contains such a primitive beauty! As I came to the other side of Sassi, I stop at another sight by the hills next to town. There I see a strange rock formation full of caves. A creek runs beneath. Who'd ever think I'd see anything like this, in ITALY??? Such a strange place! Strange beauty! This place really makes me feel like I took a time machine and came to the primitive days.

Hot sun makes me happy. It is hot, but not that hot. I brought myself a 1 liter water bottle and finished it off. After all that walk I look around for a bar and saw a couple guys sitting outside drinking Spritz. SPRITZ!? They didn't have it in Cosenza! Cool! So I walk into the bar, ordered myself a glass of spritz, and chilled out a bit. I walk out and I feel a bit high. Alchole in my empty stomach does that sometimes...

As I walk out to the city center, I look for an internet point. I found one and disappointed because it was closed. In Southern Italy, most of the time they don't bother posting their hours. It is... Whenever... Oh well. It was around Siesta time anway.
I fucking hate Siesta.
I keep on looking trying to figure out the hours, and a woman approach to me.
"Do you need to use the internet?"
"Yes."
"You can use it in library. You will need a card. Not sure if you can get one but I can still ask for you. Come with me."
This is one best thing about Italians. You ask them 1 thing, and they'll tell you about 10 different things that is related to the matter. They love to help people out. There's one thing that I found which is very similiar with Koreans. They are people of "feelings." It's the best to approach asking for sympathy then logics. They think with their heart, not with their head.

Then I come back to Vito's place, and I make a phone call to inform my arrival to him. He was picking up a pizza for the dinner. He stops by to pick me up from my room and brings me to his place. It was lovely. I met his mother and she welcomes me with her warm smile. They try their best to speak English to me and be so very delighted whenever I understand what they are telling me. We had pizza and very delicious spaghetti and ice cream cake and her homemade liquor that was wonderful. Such hospitality. They putout the tablecloths that comes from Bari just for me. My food always gets served first. They will eat only after I take a first bite. Dayum! I'm really not used to this... They call Giovanni and let me talk to him for a bit.

We talked about a lot of things, but they are most curious about how I found out about Matera. They really appreciate the fact that I made my effort to come out to this place where no tourists hardly ever know of but Italians.
"It's wonderful you visit Matera, but no one comes here. How did you find out about here?" They ask. I tell them I read it from the guide book about Italy, and show them the book. I tell them where I am from, and that I live near by Venice, and Dolomiti mountains, and they are most welcome to come stay with me in Sacile. I showed them my place on the map. Vito's mother is delighted with no end.
"You said the magic word. Dolomiti mountains!!!" Vito laughs.

I pack up, and think about hitch hiking to Napoli but I wasn't too sure. My lost ID also worries me. And besides, I haven't found a place to stay yet in Napoli. I think about getting myself a hostel room, but that'd require some form of picture identification. Next morning, Vito's father got a hold of a cheap bus ticket for me to get to Napoli. Can't complain about 11 euros ticket... at all. And they offer me a ride to the bus/train station. Vito tells me he will make sure to visit so he can go skiing in Piancavallo.

Next morning, they bring me out to the train station. I have to wait for about an hour until the bus arrives. Allora, it is hot out, and I forgot to bring water. It is toally off the beaten track and there are nothing around this train station. I look around the area, and there are some good spots here and there for the hitch hiking. I think about abandoning my bus ticket and try hitching, but that'd be unsporty after Vito's father went through trouble going to the travel agency and found the ticket for me. While I was looking around the time table, a very fine guy carefully asks me if I am taking the bus to Matera. "No, Napoli" I answer, and he goes back to the bus. Hehehehehe... I was very tempted to say "want to come to Napoli with me?" But, that'd be a brutal... Mistake. So I wait, the bus arrives, and I get in.

Scenary changes again. Beautiful, beautiful mountains! Although I'm not much of a mountain person and I am a little tired of mountains now... I am admiring the beautiful rock formations, trees, creeks, and the sun and the blue sky. And it never stays the same. Every turns, there will be something different. Again, during 3 hours of bus ride, I am never bored.

Italy, she is really proving herself.
Before I went on this trip, I told myself, and everyone. "I don't like it here. I am not fond to Italy. I don't care what others think. But this time, I will give Italy a chance. I will let her prove herself to me. Otherwise at least I can say I have seen Italy."

So I think about how foolish I was to think of all these things. I can almost here her voice telling me:
"See? You are welcomed here. Everyone's welcomed here. You know my arms are open. I was trying to tell you but somehow you just never gave me a chance."
How amazing she has been to me! She provided me seashore, beautiful rock beach, breathtaking archetecs, delicious food, friendly people, gogeours mountains and uncompariable hospitality. The people... Unlike the reputation of their pervertedness, I stayed with all very dignified, honest Italian men who treated me with the upmost respect like a queen. Giovanni, Filippo, Gianni and Vito... And Giovanni who arranged everything for my visit in Matera all the way from Rome. I hardley paid for anything. All the doors opened for me. They carried my bag pack and tried their best for my comfort and went out of their way to show me around. My perception of Southern Italian men really changed. Well, except for that mother fucker who tried to get a blow job from me simply for providing me a ride to a very short distance... MOTEHR FUCKER!!!
...Enough said.

As bus moves along, thinking I won't be able to get a place to stay without my ID scares me. I sent an SMS to Filippo too, but he couldn't give me an answer. I send an SMS to Shannon, the one who always act as my babysitter, and inform him that my ID is lost. He sends me US consulate number right away. Then he calls me and tells me they should be able to track down who I am despite I don't pocess any photo ID. I am so greatful for all these people looking after me... Out of desperation, I send an SMS to Zephyr. Knowing him, he'd just delete out my message but I figured that'd be the worst thing would happen. Had it been some rural place, I could crash on a park bench, but this is Napoli. The most chaotic and dangerous city in Italy!
"Yo, I know I'm asking a lot but I am on my way to Napoli and I need a place to stay. Can I crash at your place just for 1 night?"
He sends me a reply.
"Who it this is?"
...Fuck, is English really his 1st language???
"Nic! The one who you don't wish to talk to anymore!"
"Are you in Naples right now?"
"I am on my way. The bus will arrive at 1720."
"Why don't you have a place to stay?"
"Been traveling for past 2 weeks. Haven't the chance to find one. Say no and I'll understand!"
"No."
Fine.
I bite my lips as I delet his message. He never understood my traveler's heart and he never will. I don't bother explaining that my ID card is lost, and won't be able to get a room without it, but that's my problem, not his. Is it?
I decide to try the internet point. Filippo's friend Domenico is my last hope, who lives about an hour away from Napoli. I beat myself up for not writing his number down and I can only get it from the internet. I decide to get an access with my leave paperwork but the guy declines because he needs a photo identification. I come out, and lookup my guidebook to see if I can find some place to stay.
"...Excuse me... Do you need a place to stay?"
A guy approachs to me and talks to me with a caution. Brown hair, brigth green eyes. He does not speak very good English at all. Can he be a Napolitan? Is he trying to rip me off by luring me to a very expensive hotel?
"Yes."
"We, too." He points his friend who's next to him.
"I've got some list of hostels." I show him my guidebook.
"Parli l'Italiano?"
"...No."
"Oh? Where from?"
"France."
"Oh!"
I immediatly put my guard down. They just got here today as well. I let them look at my guidebook and they write some information down. Then I tell them I lost my documents, and really need to use the internet. They let me borrow somebody's scanned passport copy, but it gets rejected again. So he goes to the counter.
"She's with me. Here's my passport. My name is right there. She's with me."
The guy at the counter gives me an access this time.
I FUCKING LOVE THE FRENCH.
I get a hold of Domenico and he tells me how to get to his place. I take the bus and as I move along, I think about what all happened and put a bitter smile on my face. An American guy who lives in 3 bedroom villa, who lives right on the outskirt of Napoli, rejected me and wouldn't put me in his place. The one who didn't want to be my friends anymore because I am always so "negative." That I don't get particularily attracted to American guys and that I will never sleep with him by any chance. Yet, a French and Napolitan were the the ones who rescued me from being stranded in this city... "Give me that kind of shit and this is what you get," he might thought, but does it really help anything? Had he asked me the same, I'd still take him in without any hesitation. But I know he'd never care about what I think.
Oh well.

So I get off at the bus station, and wait for Domenico. I immediatly buy a bottle of water and guzzle it down. After all those years I've been trained to drink tons of water at all times, thirst can be the most unbearable feeling.

...So now I am at Domenico's place. Finally!

Always so hard to stay goodbye...

Later on, I receive Filippo's SMS on my phone. He wanted to know how it went with my hitch hiking. Poor Filippo... He must've been worried sick since he dropped me off by the gas station. So I reply him back with what happened.
"I am so sorry. Some men are like "animals" I hope you will meet different people in the future."
That was at least a comfort... It can't be bad. There are loads of good people I can meet from now on. It, just, cannot, be, that, bad.

Gianni takes me to interent point so I can check my e-mail. Then we look around the town some more. It is now dinnertime and he made some real good totellini. When he's cooking, I am not allowed to be near kitchen. He's been feeding me so much that I'd gain weight staying with him. And the food tastes so good!

Then Giovanni calls me to inform that I can stay with his family in Matera. He gives me his number, his father's number, his brother Vito's number, house number, and warns me that Vito does not speak much English and his father does not speak any English at all. Va bene, grazie. Somehow I am not worried.

Nightfall comes down, and we went out to look around Gianni's university area. Ultra modern building that has some very interesting spots here and there. Pictures I took cameout very unique. In a fact, the whole area is modern. The university is new and everything has been built around the university. Such is fairly rare in Italia, speaking from my experience...

We come back home. A bright moon rises and shines inside the room. He's got some awesome view out on the balcony! We chatted out on the balcony for a while, looking out the moon. I was greatful I was staying at Gianni's place. It felt almost like my safe heaven. Especially after my shock from what happened with my 1st hitching. Here I am away from everything and taking a break for a bit. And feel like I can truley relax. It's soothing and he's been taking such good care of me.

I talk about my plan to go to Matera. Train does not go there. Public transportation is bad. Giovanni told me buses run only in the morning so I will have to take the train very early. So I think about taking train as far as it goes and try another hitch hiking.

Next morning, I pack to leave. Gianni doesn't want me to go, and I wish I can stay some more but that is simply not possible. I got other places to go and I only have so much time. Even if I had more time, his roommate is coming back later in the afternoon and will claim his bed, since I was using his bed.

"Please, take caution. You can try hitch hiking but do check the time table for the bus first..."
His eyes are filled with worry as I tell him how I plan to get there.
"Oh, don't worry. I'll be fine." I tell him with smile.

He takes me to the train station. I enjoy the ride as the train moves along from West to the East. I will be in Matera soon. I am going to see Sassi. As the train arrives in Metapondo, I have a feeling that I will be able to get a ride here.

I check around the area. Totally beaten track with hardley ever any traffic... Good. Good! I walk further and check out some spots where I can stand around. Then I decided to walk until I get to find some good spot. I walked and walked and walked. I will stay here for 3 days if I have to. "But Nic, you will get a ride here. You will get a ride here!" I tell myself. I spotted some cardboard box. I have a marker with me that I bought in Sicily in case I'd have to make a sign. So I made a nice big sign that has "MATERA" on.

I walk some more. I put away my sunglasses so drivers can see my face. I walk and walk and walk and flash the sign and stick my thumb up to any cars that passes me by. I gave up smiling. I am now looking desperate. It's hot out and I am hoping someone will take a pity of me and pick me off of the street.

There stops ENEL pickup truck. ENEL is Italian electricity company. There are 2 men in the pickup and don't seem to appear any threat. I get inside.
"It is harder to get a ride here." One man tells me.
"We are not going to Matera... But we will drop you off at the spot where it will be easier for you to get a ride."
Ah, ah, a good sign!

They drop me off by an autostrada exit. A perfect spot! Yes, yes. Nic, you will get a ride! You will get a ride! My fear disappears. I somehow feel assurance. I flash the sign as a car rolls out. They stop... A family!!! A man, 2 women, and a babygirl. What else can be safter than that? What else can be more assuring than that? I run towards to hop in. And I start to chatter. To show my gratuity, I wrote everyone's name in Korean and they seem to be very delighted.
"We are not Italians," the man said.
"No?"
"We are from Albania."
"Oh, nice!"

They drop me off at the town center. I call Vito's father and he comes out to pick me up. He does not speak any English indeed, but he asks me if I speak any French. Only if I can... He treats me to a coffee and leads me to an apartment building where I get my own room! Woo hoo!